Faller Flipper FA140439 - Construction Log



Box Contents



First task was to construct the lifting mechanism...



... and attach it to the base



Added the decals to the turntable



The Hub



Barriers added around the base



This picture shows the various pieces needed to construct each car



The turntable has been attached to the lift mechanism and the cars have been added.
I soldered a DC socket to the motor's wires - I'm going to use a low-cost 16v AC Transformer to power the motor.









First test!!



Construction of the back wall.






Pay Desk, Loudspeakers and additional barriers added.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-O-KeDRt14s




Automation & LED Project

Aim of Project:
1) Add a timer circuit to the model and include a loading/unloading phase (using a magnet and reed switch to determine when to cut power to the motor).
2) Add fast changing RGB LEDs to the rear of the 6 large round Light boards at the front of the model.
3) Replace the Flipper sign at the back of the model with an LED display.

I will use programmable Picaxe chips to control the ride, detect the activation of the reed switch and drive the LEDs.

Base Modifications

I've glued a Reed Switch (model: Meder MK06-5-B) to the underside of the model - this will be activated by a magnet glued to the main disc. I was initially only going to use one magnet, but after testing this set up I found that because the period between the disc returning to base level and starting to rise again was less than one revolution, occasionally the Reed Switch would not "see" the magnet. So I added a second magnet to the disc. The magnets are 3mm Neodymium Cube Magnets (I had plenty left over from the Jupiter Ferris Wheel modifications).


The Reed Switch and one of the 3mm Neodymium Cube Magnets.







To add the LEDs, one lead was fed down the hole down the centre of the support pole, whilst the other was fed down the side of the support pole and through a small hole drilled into the base. I needed to solder wires to the leads to extend their length.








The LEDs have been soldered together and hot-glued (badly) to the base.



I've added 4 LEDs around the central hub.



The motor and LEDs are powered from a single power source (16VAC). This is the prototype circuit.
Rather than make a Control Box, I will break the circuit down into smaller sections and secure a number of stripboard pieces to the underside of the base.






Clockwise from top left:
Power Conversion Board: 16vAC for motor --> 12vDC (approx) for LEDs --> 5vDC for Picaxe Chip
LED Board: Switches power to 3 LED circuits (Hub, Front Lighting boards & White Floodlights)
Chip Control Board: Switches on 3 LED circuits & Motor + detects Reed Switch activation
Relay Board: Diverts 16vAC from Power Board to Motor when triggered by Chip





Building the LED Sign


The image above shows my first idea for a replacement sign. It'll be mounted on a piece of stripboard.
The original Flipper sign is above the LEDs, whilst a stretched version is below.
This stretched version will be mounted behind the LEDs, and the stripboard will be trimmed to match the sign.
This sign will have its own power supply.



The LEDs forming each letter of the sign have been soldered together. Each letter will be powered independently - the 'F' has two power supplies.



It was difficult to get the letters and the LEDs to line up exactly - this was the best I could do.

I designed the following circuit flowchart to provide power to the LEDs on the Flipper sign.


And here's how the components in the above flowchart will be arranged on the stripboard...



















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usO9CvGAW0I



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